Jerusalem Artichokes: Versatile Tubers with a Rich History

By Joyce M. White

Jerusalem artichokes are the edible tubers of Helianthus tuberosus, a plant related to sunflowers. Native to Peru, they grow wild throughout most of the United States and were once a staple food of Indigenous North American people. The name “Jerusalem” is somewhat misleading, as it has no connection to the eponymous city. Instead, it derives from the Italian word girasole, which translates to “turning toward the sun.”. “Jerusalem” is, therefore, an anglicized corruption of girasole. Fans of Frances Mayes’ novel and film Under the Tuscan Sun might recognize girasole as the name of the villa in which the story is set. Jerusalem artichokes are also commonly referred to as “sunchokes.”

In 1603, Samuel de Champlain encountered Jerusalem artichokes during his travels in the St. Lawrence Valley. He referred to them as “roots cultivated by the Indians, which have the flavor of the artichoke.” With a taste similar to artichokes and a texture like water chestnuts, they were desirable, especially because they are easy to harvest and can be gathered almost any time of the year except in summer. Typically, though, they were harvested in September and October after which they were packed in sand to store over winter. While wild Jerusalem artichokes were easy to access, Eastern Woodland people may have also cultivated them before they began to farm maize.

In early Maryland, Jerusalem artichokes were used in many ways. Colonists combined them with corn, cornstalks, persimmons, sweet potatoes, pumpkins, and wild hops to make beer and distilled spirits. They were also served as a side dish to meats such as beef, added to stuffing for poultry (especially turkeys), and were incorporated into casseroles. Additionally, Jerusalem artichokes were steeped in hot water to make a medicinal tea believed to relieve rheumatism.

Artichokes have a long history in European cuisine, dating back to ancient times and, by the 17th century, they were quite fashionable in England, France, and the Netherlands. This explains why European colonists were eager to incorporate this New World food into their diets. Conversely, they were also introduced to Europeans in the 17th century where they were served at fine Parisian dinners; however, they never did gain popularity among the upper classes and, ultimately, only became associated with Europe’s poor people. A possible explanation for this may lie in the fact that they contain inulin, an indigestible carbohydrate that produces painful intestinal gas if eaten to excess.

This versatile tuber can be prepared in various ways: apart from consuming raw, they can be roasted, fried, creamed, pickled, or added to soups and stews. This may partly explain their fall from fashion.

Here is a recipe to try:

Jerusalem Artichokes

Mrs. Frederic C. Thomas, Troth’s Fortune, Choptank River, Talbot
Maryland’s Way: The Hammond-Harwood House Cookbook (Annapolis, 1963)

The Jerusalem Artichoke is a native of North America. It contains no starch.

Wash artichokes in cold water, scrape them, and drop immediately into cold water; let them soak an hour or so.

Drain, cut in convenient pieces and put in a saucepan. Cover with boiling water, salt it slightly, and add 1 tablespoon lemon juice or vinegar to each quart of water. This prevents graying.
Cook artichokes slowly until tender, about 20 to 25 minutes. Watch carefully and do not overcook, as they will easily harden again. Serve with drawn butter or cream sauce.

Joyce M. White, a food historian, may be contacted through www.atasteofhistory.net.