From English Fairs to Maryland Tables: The Story of Shrewsbury Cakes

By Joyce M. White

Few historic cookies can claim both royal pedigree and enduring popularity, but the humble Shrewsbury Cake does just that. This crisp, buttery biscuit – once sold at English fairs – found its way across the Atlantic and into Maryland’s culinary tradition. A fine example appears in the c. 1824 manuscript receipt book of Ann Maria Morris, preserved in the special collections library of The Maryland Center for History and Culture in Baltimore.

Shrewsbury Cakes originated in the market town of Shrewsbury, in Shropshire, England, where they were sold as “fairings” – treats purchased at market fairs. Other fairings included gingerbread and Barnet Cakes, but Shrewsbury Cakes quickly became a standout. Markets in Shrewsbury date to as early as the 10th century, though the first written reference to the cakes doesn’t appear until 1602. Lord Herbert of Cherbury described them as “a kind of cake which country people use and make in no place in England but in Shrewsbury,” adding a poetic note: “Measure not my love by substance of it, which is brittle, but by the form of it which is circular.” His description captures two defining traits that persist across centuries – the cakes must be thin, round, and delightfully crisp. By the early 18th century, recipes began appearing in print. In Henry Howard’s 1708 cookbook, England’s Newest Way in All Sorts of Cookery, the dough is rolled and cut into “little thin cakes” that bake quickly. Across numerous historical recipes, consistency remains: Shrewsbury Cakes should be light, crisp, and delicately structured.

At their core, Shrewsbury Cakes are simple butter cookies, but their flavorings tell a richer story. Early recipes often included nutmeg and rosewater, as seen in a 1621 recipe attributed to John Murrell. Over time, bakers experimented with spices, such as mace and cinnamon. Perhaps the most intriguing addition is caraway seed. Though it may seem unusual in a sweet cookie today, caraway was a common ingredient in early modern baking. Its sharp, slightly anise-like flavor mellows when combined with butter and sugar, creating a distinctive and surprisingly pleasing taste.

One charming and unexpected detail, found in some historical recipes, is the instruction to prick or “dock” the dough before baking. This prevents the thin cakes from puffing unevenly in the oven and burning. A particularly memorable example appears in John Evelyn’s late 17th-century manuscript Receipts Medicinal. He suggests decorating the cakes by pricking them with “the great teeth of a comb that is new and kept for that use.” The comb in question was originally designed to remove lice nits – a reminder that early kitchens often repurposed everyday objects in creative, if somewhat disturbing, ways.

Shrewsbury Cakes proved remarkably adaptable. Recipes appear in both English and American cookbooks and manuscript collections throughout the 18th and early 19th centuries, including those in Maryland. Their durability, simple ingredients, and pleasing flavor made them ideal for trans-Atlantic kitchens.

From English fairs to early Maryland kitchens – now to yours: Make the following recipe for Shrewsbury Cakes and experience a culinary tradition that has stood the test of time.

Joyce M. White is a food historian, and can be contacted through www.atasteofhistory.net.

Shrewsbury Cakes

Adapted from the c. 1824 manuscript of Ann Maria Morris

Yield: About 5 dozen (2½-inch rounds)

Ingredients:

• 1 cup (2 sticks) salted butter, softened
• 1 cup plus one tablespoon granulated sugar
• 1 large egg
• 2½ cups flour (plus more for rolling)
• 2 tablespoons caraway seeds

Directions:

1. Cream the butter and sugar until light and smooth; then beat in the egg.
2. Stir the caraway seeds into the flour, then add to the butter mixture, mixing until a dough forms.
3. Wrap and refrigerate for at least one hour. Let the dough soften slightly before rolling.
4. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
5. Roll the dough to about ¼-inch thickness. Cut into 2½-inch rounds and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet.
6. Bake about 9-10 minutes, or until the edges are just turning golden. 
7. Slide the parchment paper holding the cookies onto a cooling rack (they will firm up as they cool).