Addicted to Pho

By Barbara Aiken

Pho, let’s take a look at the history of this humble, rich-flavored, rice noodle-laden soup that became a staple of Vietnamese cuisine in the early 20^th century. This, seemingly, simple dish has evolved and become an international superstar. People are very serious about their pho and how they like it served.

It is generally agreed that pho has its origin as a street food in Hanoi, Vietnam’s capital. It is considered to be a comforting concoction akin to a bowl of chicken noodle soup here in America. Pho is healthy, low in fat, and soothing for a cold. Some folks I know swear by it for hangovers – No names will be mentioned.

Pho is a melding of Vietnamese, French and Chinese influences. The Vietnamese enjoyed bowls of noodle soup called xáo trâu made with water buffalo bones and meat. The Vietnamese didn’t eat beef; their cattle were used as work animals. The Vietnamese noodles used in xáo trâu are thin, round, usually rice, vermicelli (“little worms” in Italian) noodles. Vermicelli can also be made from wheat or mung bean flour. During the French colonial occupation of Vietnam, the French enjoyed their beef as they had done in their own country. Beef took over as the meat of choice in pho. The spices and flat rice noodles used in pho today are an influence of Chinese culture.

In 1975, at the end of the Vietnam War, the United States saw a massive influx of Vietnamese immigrants. Naturally, these family-oriented people brought with them the traditions, customs and foods of their unique culture. Pho was one of those special foods that caught on and derived a cultlike following in the U.S. 

There are two main versions of pho, Hanoi or northern pho, a clear mild broth base; and Saigon or southern pho, which has a sweeter and richer base. Both usually use thinly sliced beef for protein and sometimes chicken. The broth base is traditionally made from beef or chicken bones simmered in water to extract the nutrients and flavor from the bones. A variety of spices are used as you’ll see in the recipe below. 

Finely chopped garlic, fresh ginger, and thinly sliced scallions are commonly included in the preparation of pho. Freshly squeezed lime juice adds brightness to the broth and yellow lump or rock sugar is used in the Saigon version. Yellow rock sugar has a delicate sweetness; not as cloyingly sweet as white sugar.

The toppings for pho are many and varied and some favorites are listed in the recipe. The garnishes are what make pho your very own.

Pho is easy to prepare; you don’t have to make the broth from bones if you don’t want to. Here’s a simple version that you may want to try.

Vietnamese Pho

Serves 4

For the broth:

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 whole star anise, toasted

4 cloves minced garlic

1 cinnamon stick

3 chopped shallots

½ teaspoon whole cloves, toasted

1-1/2-inch finely chopped or grated fresh ginger

3 cardamom pods

8 thinly sliced scallions

1 lemongrass stalk

1 tablespoon fish sauce or to taste

Juice of ½ lime

1 tablespoon low salt soy sauce or to taste

½-inch chunk of yellow rock sugar, may omit

6 cups beef or chicken broth

For serving:

12 oz. rice noodles 1 to 1-1/2 lbs. cooked, thinly sliced beef or chicken (use a rotisserie chicken to save time)

Garnishes:

• Thinly sliced red onion
• Green parts of scallions
• Bean sprouts
• Shredded cabbage
• Bok choy
• Fresh mint
• Fresh cilantro
• Thai basil
• Thinly sliced jalapeño
• Sriracha sauce
• Hoisin sauce
• Fresh lime wedges

In a large soup pot or Dutch oven, sauté the shallot, white part of the scallions (reserve the green parts for a garnish), minced garlic and fresh ginger in the olive oil until softened. While sautéing, place the spices in a square of fine cheesecloth and tie up with kitchen twine. This makes it easier to retrieve from the broth before serving.

Add the beef or chicken broth to the sautéed items and drop in the spice bag and lemongrass stalk (use the grated rind of a small lime if you don’t have lemongrass). Cover with a lid and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove the spice bag and lemongrass stalk. 

Taste and adjust seasonings with soy sauce, fish sauce, lime juice and yellow rock sugar. If you don’t have rock sugar, use one teaspoon of light brown sugar or demerara. You can leave it out. The broth is ready to serve or you can strain it if desired. You can also cool the broth and freeze.

Prepare the toppings of your choice and place in separate bowls or on a platter, depending what you’re using, so diners can add the garnishes they desire. 

Place the flat rice noodles in a bowl of warm water for 15-25 minutes to soften. If using thin vermicelli noodles 5-15 minutes may be enough. Be delicate with these noodles as they fall apart easily. Place some softened noodles in a serving bowl, top with broth, add in the protein and serve along with an accompaniment of garnishes.

For chicken pho you may like to pair your meal with a Sancerre or a Riesling. For beef pho try a light pinot noir or gamay. Now grab your chop sticks and a soup spoon and dig in. You, too, may become a pho addict, if you’re not already.

Barbara has been cooking and baking for over 50 years. Preparing delicious meals and pairing them with the perfect wine is one of her passions. Contact Barbara at: [email protected].