Holland in Bloom

By Lisa Derx

Until I started growing tulips myself, I had no idea how many forms there were. Accustomed to a few standard types that we see in public plantings, usually single forms, I was astonished by the beauty of parrots, fringed, lily-flowering, and double varieties. Captivated by these stately blooms, I began reading more about their origin. That, of course, led me to Holland.

The 17^th century is considered the Dutch Golden Age, and it is then that tulips were first grown there. Noted botanist Carolus Clusius is credited with planting them at the University of Leiden, where he was a professor. He found that Holland’s sandy soil and cool climate were ideal conditions for tulips. Thus, Professor Clusius’s work centuries ago is the foundation that made Holland the leader in tulip production today.  

Last spring, when two friends mentioned a trip to Amsterdam, I readily agreed, so long as we went during tulip time. We had fun planning our trip together, and what follows is a short summary of our experience.  

Amsterdam is a thoroughly charming city built on canals. Many of the buildings date from the 17^th and 18^th centuries, so there is much to admire in the architecture.

We took a boat tour our first day, which was a relaxing way to orient ourselves. There are many options for a boat tour at various times, size of boat, and whether you want food or drink included.  

Because it is largely flat, it is very walkable – although you must be careful to watch for bicyclists. Everyone in Amsterdam bikes, and pedestrians do NOT have the right of way. Residents commute on bikes, they ride to social engagements and to shop on bikes – there are bikes absolutely everywhere, with kids in carriers and dogs in baskets and they are riding quickly. Definitely look both ways before crossing any street.

Bakery cafes abound. In fact, I wanted to spend a day meandering from one to another, enjoying lattes, sampling the famous stroopwafels, and more, but, alas, we did not have that kind of time. You can sit forever in a cafe or restaurant. Unlike in the states, they will not bring your bill until you ask for it.

When to Go: We knew we wanted to see Keukenhof, the famous public garden that is open for just eight weeks each year, which gave us a window of late March to early May.

Logistics: Two in our group of four are seasoned travelers, and they advocated for renting an Airbnb as being both interesting and economical. Another suggested using Costco Travel, as she had been pleased with two previous European trips arranged through them. When we did a cost comparison, Costco was cheaper. Our package included direct flights from Dulles to Schiphol, five nights at Kimpton De Witt Hotel, and ground transportation to and from the airport in Amsterdam for $2,300 per person.  

Hotel: The Kimpton De Witt turned out to be just what we needed. Centrally located, we could walk in 10-20 minutes to the Central Station, the Anne Frank House, the Resistance Museum, and much more. We requested twin beds, as we were sharing rooms, and they easily accommodated us. The rooms were modern, very clean, and comfortable. Additionally, our stay included a full breakfast each morning, unlimited bottled water, and wine between 4 and 5 p.m. The hotel also has a business center and fitness center.

The Sights: We researched what to see and do using Trip Advisor. I had not known until then that you can purchase tickets through Trip Advisor. Since this has been a trusted source for many years, we did purchase a day trip for Keukenhof and the Zaanse Schans that came highly rated. Moreover, we had the option to cancel with no charge up to 48 hours before our selected date. We picked up important tips about visiting other places and whether and when to purchase advance tickets on this site, too.

Anne Frank House: This was a must for all of us, and presented the most anxiety about booking. Tickets go on sale at 10 a.m. on Tuesday six weeks before the week you want to visit and they sell out quickly. Given that Amsterdam is six hours ahead of the Eastern time zone, we had to be up before 4 a.m. ready to purchase. We were successful, but I recommend you go online before 4 a.m. and familiarize yourself with the website. Be flexible with your days and times, too. And, don’t be discouraged if, when you log on, there are hundreds ahead of you – it goes quickly. We opted to include the half-hour introduction before the tour, and this was very informative. The tour itself is deeply moving.

Keukenhof: In 1949, a group of bulb growers and exporters decided to use Keukenhof to showcase their products, and this 80-acre public garden has been dazzling thousands annually ever since. Most famous for their tulips, the displays include other spring-flowering bulbs such as muscari, hyacinths, fritillaria, leucojum, hellebore, and more. The beauty truly is breathtaking, the gardens are meticulously kept – I noticed two gardeners hand-weeding a section – and if you garden, like flowers, or simply enjoy beauty, this is well worth your time. The day trip we purchased allocated almost four hours here, which we found sufficient. Some say you want to allow a full day, and this would depend on whether you want to take pictures, paint, purchase a canalboat tour, and visit every section of the garden. We wanted to take the boat tour, but it sold out quickly, so, if this is important to you, purchase early.

Royal FloraHolland Aalsmeer: One of the largest flower auctions in the world is located in Holland. The Royal FloraHolland Aalsmeer sells 20 to 40 million stems every day to wholesalers around the world. While the auction itself now takes place online, there is still plenty to see. The auction happens between seven to 11 a.m. Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Friday, and seven to 9 a.m. Thursday, so this is an early trip. We found Uber to be the quickest way to get there – about 30 minutes from our hotel. Public transportation works, but that would have taken about 90 minutes. The tour during these eight weeks is self-guided with audio headphones. There are steps and walking, so keep that in mind.  

Amsterdam offers beauty, art, a rich history, and charm in one gorgeous city. Take time to plan to see what matters most to you. These sites can help you plan your trip: https://www.tripadvisor.com; https://www.iamsterdam.com/en; https://www.ricksteves.com/europe/netherlands/amsterdam

Lisa Derx is a member of the American Daffodil Society, President of Chesapeake Flower Exchange, Local Flowers Liaison for the Independent Floral Designers Association, and a member of the Association of Specialty Cut Flowers and the Maryland Cut Flower Growers Association. Her home is in Dayton, Maryland, where she lives and grows flowers with her husband Dan and cat Sebastian.