A Historic Green Tomato Tart Recipe from Miss Chase to H.A. Harwood

As early spring emerges, it’s the perfect time to begin dreaming about the fresh produce soon to fill Maryland’s local gardens. The historic recipe, To Preserve Green Tomatoes for Tarts, found in “Maryland’s Way, The Hammond-Harwood House Cook Book” (Annapolis, 1963), is a wonderful way to use the anticipated harvest of green tomatoes. Tarts were a common dish in the 19th century, and this one – made with savory green tomatoes sweetened with generous amounts of sugar and spices – embodies a classic Southern tradition.

This recipe is particularly significant to Maryland’s history and the Hammond-Harwood House in Annapolis because it was written with the following inscription: “addressed to H.A. Harwood from Miss Chase, 1850.” Miss Chase was, likely, Ann Chase, the daughter of Samuel Chase, a signer of the Declaration of Independence. H.A. Harwood was probably Hester Ann Harwood, the daughter of Frances Loockerman, who moved into the Hammond-Harwood House on Maryland Avenue in 1811. Frances Loockerman and Ann Chase were related through both their mothers (who were sisters) and their fathers (who were first cousins, once removed). In 1832, Hester married William Harwood, the great-grandson of William Buckland, the esteemed architect and designer of the Loockermans’ grand Annapolis home – where the Harwoods also lived.

For centuries, recipes were passed among family and friends by being recorded in personal journals, often called commonplace books. The tomato tart recipe given to Hester Ann Loockerman Harwood by Miss Ann Chase would have been shared in this way. It’s unlikely that either woman ever cooked the recipes they kept in their journals; instead, cooking tasks – like baking, pickling, and preserving – were typically handled by enslaved or free servants. Historic recipes were often written as loose guides rather than detailed, step-by-step instructions. In the morning, the lady of the house would recite the day’s recipes from her book to the cook, who would then rely on their intuition and experience to turn vague instructions into delicious and, often, beautiful dishes.

Not surprisingly, this green tomato tart recipe lacks many steps and measurements. I had to revise it significantly to make it usable for today’s cooks. Below, you’ll find both the original recipe as it appeared in “Maryland’s Way” and my modern adaptation, which is much easier to follow.

Joyce M. White, a food historian, may be reached at www.atasteofhistory.net.

To Preserve Green Tomatoes for Tarts

Take green tomatoes, skin them and cut them into four parts. To every pound of tomatoes, put ½ pound of sugar, lemon peel and ginger to your taste, cinnamon if you choose. Stew them until done. Make a tart of paste at the bottom of the dish and put the tomato preserve in without a top crust and bake until done. Eat cold. 

Modern Recipe Adaptation

Yield: One nine-inch tart

Ingredients:

• 2½ to 3 pounds of green (or under ripe) tomatoes 
• 2 cups sugar
• Grated rind of 2 lemons
• ½ tsp. ground ginger
• ½ tsp. ground Ceylon cinnamon
• Pastry for the bottom of one 9-inch tart pan (homemade or store-bought)

Directions:

1. Cut an X on the bottom of each tomato. Immerse tomatoes in boiling water for several minutes, or until the skin around the X starts to curl up. Transfer the tomatoes into a bowl of iced water. Allow them to sit in the ice water until the skins start to wrinkle and can be easily peeled off.
2. Slice each tomato in four quarters. Cut off stalk ends and place in a large pot. 
3. Add the sugar, lemon rind, and spices to the tomatoes and mix.
4. Place the pot over medium heat until all the sugar melts, and then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for about 45 minutes, or until the tomatoes are soft. 
5. Lift the tomatoes out of the syrup using a slotted spoon and place them in a covered container. Refrigerate until completely cold, about 1-2 hours. Store the remaining syrup in a separate covered container and refrigerate.
6. Line the tart pan with the pastry dough and refrigerate until needed.
7. About 15 minutes before ready to bake, heat the oven to 375º F. 
8. Place the tart pan on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. 
9. Fill the tart with the tomatoes. If the tomatoes look dry, add a few spoons of the reserved syrup.
10. Bake for 30 minutes, until pastry is golden.
11. Refrigerate at least two hours before serving.